Deep and steep--Black Canyon of the Gunnison

The Gunnison River cuts a path through canyon rock.

Standing near the rim of Colorado's Black Canyon of the Gunnison, I’m awed by the immense expanse of rock and the deepness of the canyon. It’s almost overwhelming, especially when I recall that I’ve been to this national park before, but I’ve forgotten how stunning it is. I feel as though I’m seeing the steep cliffs that cradle a ribbon of river below for the first time.

Another look at the steep canyon walls
at Black Canyon of the Gunnison
National Park in Colorado

The beauty of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park sneaks up on you like that. With some of the oldest exposed rock on Earth--the craggy spires are nearly two billion years old—canyon walls change in appearance as daytime shadows move with the sun.  Standing on the edge of the gorge, you see the river, canyon walls, and jagged rocks that have been sculpted by the forces of wind and water.

A good starting point in the park is the South Rim Visitor Center, located at an overlook called Gunnison Point. Without going any further you could get a good idea of the geology and the natural forces that created this amazing southwest Colorado destination.

Rugged rock formations add to the beauty of the park.

From the Visitor Center, you can take South Rim Drive, a well-marked road that covers seven miles from Tomichi Point (the first pull-out where you can view the canyon) to High Point (at 8,000 feet, it’s the beginning of wilderness area). Along the way are 12 overlooks, most reached by walking short trails, but each offering its own special view of the canyon.



Chasm View Lookout shows how deep
Black Canyon is. Dark shadows give
the canyon its name.

Although we had only planned a quick visit, the canyon drew us in, and we spent an afternoon fascinated by scenes at overlooks like Chasm View, Painted Wall, Pulpit Rock, Cross Fissures, and the dangerously high Rock Point. Panoramas can only attempt to capture the depth of the Gunnison River, which drops at an average of 95 feet per mile. (By comparison, the Colorado River through Grand Canyon National Park drops an average of 7.5 feet per mile).

A gnarled tree reflects harsh conditions on
the plateau.

Black Canyon  of the Gunnison is one of the lesser visited national parks, but it’s certainly worth a visit, especially during 2016, the centennial year for the National Park Service. If you’re a photography buff, you’ll have plenty of exceptional vistas of Colorado’s incomparable scenery to record with your camera.

In addition to driving through the park, visitors can hike, backpack, raft, or kayak. While some sections of the Gunnison River require experienced kayakers, outfitters like RIGS, based in Ridgway about an hour from Black Canyon, offer rafting trips in Gunnison Gorge on the lower Gunnison. Suitable for all ages, this trip is especially fun when the water is flowing from spring run-off.

Rafting on the Gunnison River is a fun excursion, and lunch
may be included by outfitters.

I’m really glad to have a second chance to savor Black Canyon of the Gunnison, a national park whose extraordinary rock formations are now etched in my memory.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

 

 

 

Autumn explodes with brilliant color schemes

Lake Geneva, Wisconsin

It's the season when we start thinking of fall color--and all the great places that celebrate with a bounty of gorgeous landscapes. Pick your favorite destination and go, even if it's just a day trip. Or plan a road trip that includes several autumn masterpieces.



Red aspens in Colorado

Autumn is one of the most beautiful times to travel. The weather has cooled from summer’s triple digits (if you’re in the South), and landscapes are bathed in brilliant colors. Not only are tree leaves turning red, yellow, and orange but harvest time brings a cornucopia of brightly colored produce to farmer’s markets and our tables.

Lake Geneva, Wisconsin

Even if the area where you live barely registers four seasons, you can still enjoy splendid natural landscapes.  These photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier are intended to whet your appetite for more fall scenery, so enjoy—and then go find your own glorious views.


Holland, Michigan



Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
 

Maroon Bells, Colorado
 

Of course, the east coast has splendid displays that draw in leaf-peepers every fall. But you can find plenty of color in mid-west and western states, too.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Lost Maples State Natural Area, Texas



Aspens in Colorado

Branson, Missouri

Lost Maples State Natural Area, Texas

Midland, Michigan

What a marvelous place to play golf--Wisconsin.

Is it possible to make flying fun again?

Higher fares, smaller seats, delayed flights, lost luggage. We’ve experienced all of these during the last six months of our travels. Is it any wonder we consider flying the most challenging part of travel?

More passengers step onboard airplanes every year.

Of course, we don’t plan to stop going places and exploring our big wonderful world, so we just deal with those inconveniences as best we can. Understanding what is happening regarding air travel might help make your trip a little less stressful. It won’t be more fun, but at least you won’t feel sabotaged.

Compared to 1975, prices for flights are 35 % higher, and today the fare is just the starting point. Extra charges may come from your chosen seat assignments, change fees, and checked bags—all of which add a sizeable margin to the airlines’ profit.

Checked bag fees add significantly to the
bottom line of most airlines. Don't expect those to go away.

The current recommendation is to buy tickets 54 days prior to your flight. If you’re planning a vacation at specific dates, that’s probably doable, but change fees can be expensive—up to $200 on domestic flights and more for international. Purchasing insurance may be a wise move. Depending on where you’re going, booking anywhere from 25-105 days ahead is reasonable—shorter lead times for domestic flights and longer margins for international or remote destinations.

Booking well in advance also helps ensure family members can get seats together. Purchasing preferred seats might help keep mom with the kids during busy times, but that can add lots of bucks to the stated fee.

Baggage fees are rising, too. In 2013 U.S. airlines made $3.35 billion from checked bag fees, which average $25 each way. The easiest way to avoid spending an extra $50 or more per trip is to get a credit card from your preferred airline. For domestic flights, being a card-holder allows one checked bag per person on the reservation. For international flights, one checked bag is generally allowed for all passengers (be aware that Canada and Mexico may not be treated like international destinations).

Make sure your carryon bag is the appropriate size or you may be asked to check it anyway.

Speaking of luggage, carryon size for most domestic flights is 22 inches, although international airlines may limit bags to 21 inches. Delta, American, and United seem to be the most restrictive, while Jet Blue, Alaska, and Southwest are less so. However, change is in the air even for so-called budget airlines, so be sure to check on what’s allowed before packing.

When you squeeze into an economy seat and feel there’s no place for your elbows and knees, it’s not your imagination that seats are getting smaller. The seat pitch (space between rows) has decreased from 34 inches to 29 or 30 inches. Not only are seats shrinking but the padding also seems to be getting skimpier. Comfort of passengers has given way to making money by inserting more seats into planes, and that trend doesn't show any signs of abating.

To avoid delays, fly early in the day, especially if leaving from the east coast. Delays increase from morning to evening and from east to west. When you purchase a ticket online at the airline site, the on-time percentage of each flight is listed. Not surprisingly, this can vary by the hour.

Allow enough time for any changes to your flight.

Check in early. You’ll generally get an email reminder 24 hours before your flight, and it’s best to check in as soon as possible. Confirm seat assignment to be sure it was recorded correctly and that there hasn’t been a change of plane types with a different seat configuration. If a flight is overbooked and not enough passengers volunteer to take a later flight, the last ones checked in will be the first ones bumped involuntarily, if that becomes necessary. Since U.S. airlines sold a record 87.8 percent of seats in July 2014 (not counting airline employees who fly for free), that means virtually every seat is occupied. Overbooking is not uncommon these days.



Find a spot to relax in the terminal before your flight.

Arrive early for your flight, too, so you can keep up with any gate or departure time changes. It never hurts to ask about an upgrade since seats sometimes open up at the last minute. If that happens, you may have a surprisingly enjoyable flight.

Photos from free online sites.

 

 

 

4 things to do in Colorado before summer ends

Summer is winding down, but for the next few weeks you can still enjoy warm weather activities in Colorado.

Colorado Fruit and Wine Country

Peach orchard near Palisade
 

On Colorado's Western Slope, primarily around Palisade, Grand Junction, Paonia, Hotchkiss and Cedaredge, the mountains and plains conspire to create a perfect climate for some of the country's most innovative and charming wineries. Amid orchards of peach, cherry and apple trees, acre upon acre of neat green rows of grapevines stand in stark contrast to the red sandstone mesas and deep azure sky. Stop in some of the intimate wineries for stellar classics like chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon and interesting Rieslings, gewürztraminers, petit verdots and malbecs.

Vineyard near Grand Junction

Read more: Beyond Wine in Colorado's Wine Country, From Fine Wine to Fossils
ds in Colorado wine country
Ute Mountain Tribal Park



Mesa Verde National Park

Ute Mountain Tribal Park near Cortez is only open to the public through a unique program in which Ute guides navigate visitors into the wilderness that abuts Mesa Verde National Park's southern boundary. This land was home to Ancestral Puebloans 1,000 years ago, who built cliff dwellings and irrigated and farmed the land. With only 1,300 visitors per year, Ute Mountain is undeveloped and quiet. Hike narrow trails and climb steep ladders onto high ledges — and feel like you have the place to yourself.

Read more: Colorado Scenic Byways: Trail of the Ancients, Gaming in Colorado's Four Corners Region

Zapata Falls

Great Sand Dunes National Park

As hikers approach the falls along a winding, half-mile trail at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains on the way to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve and Alamosa, it feels a bit like they're chasing it — they can hear the roar of the 40-foot-tall Zapata Falls and feel its cooling effect long before they can actually see it. The view from the trailhead encompasses the expansive San Luis Valley and the entire field of the distant dunes. Other wilderness hiking and biking trails can be accessed in the same area.



Zapata Falls

Read more: A 2-Day San Luis Valley Itinerary, Los Caminos Antiguos Scenic Byway, Other Colorado Waterfalls

Concert at Red Rocks Amphitheatre or a Colorado Rockies Night Game

Choosing just one essential Denver summer experience is difficult — squeezing both into one weekend will have you in Colorado bliss.

Red Rocks Amphitheater gets its name from the topography there.

Every Coloradan's — and perhaps even the nation's — favorite outdoor concert venue, Red Rocks' massive, slanting red-rock outcroppings rise from the earth to create an acoustically ideal natural amphitheater. But the experience goes beyond the music itself. The iconic rocks provide a powerful mystique. Early evening concerts are especially enchanting, as the waning rays of a Colorado sunset frame the stage and paint the setting with pastel colors.

Fans of Colorado's boys of summer are the luckiest we know. Coors Field is one of the Major League Baseball's most scenic, friendly and reasonably priced venues.

Information and some photos provided by Colorado Tourism, www.colorado.com
Other photos by Larry Burmeier

Put Glacier National Park on your must-see list--soon

Established as a national park in 1910, Glacier is well-known for opportunities to spot wildlife. But there are additional reasons why you should plan a visit—sooner rather than later.

Lake view from the lodge at Many Glacier

Only 26 of the 150 glaciers that existed in the park in the 1850s are still there today. For most of those, visitors just see remnants of ice high in the mountains. Scientists estimate that there won’t be any more active glaciers in the park by 2030.

Even without wildlife and glaciers, abundant mountains and lakes in this northern park provide some of the most spectacular scenery in the United States. Roads in the park take you near many of the 131 named lakes (more than 630 lakes are unnamed). The park also contains 175 mountains and more than 740 miles of trails for spectacular views.

Bears fatten up on berries in late August.

Whether you see the scenery from hiking trails, boat rides, private car, tour bus, or while sipping a glass of wine at one of the vintage lodges, the vistas will become etched into your heart and mind. Every turn in the road, every direction you look, there’s another “wow” moment to remember forever.

Glaciers are still visible but many are disappearing.

Specials on lodging now

Early fall is a great time to visit Glacier National Park. Golf packages are available for guests staying at Grouse Mountain Lodge until September 22. From September 20 through May 15, 2016, book three consecutive nights at Grouse Mountain Lodge and the fourth night is free.

As summer changes to autumn, it’s prime time to enjoy a beautiful drive or take a breathtaking hike on one of the trails. Explore the changing landscapes and get your third night free when you stay at any of the park’s properties now.  Book online or call 406-892-2525 to reserve.

A huge park

Hidden Lake is a beautiful destination, and the hike is easy.

Glacier National Park encompasses one million acres. Knowing we couldn’t cover it all, we chose to stay at two lodges in opposite ends of the park. Our first destination was at the park’s largest lake, McDonald Lake. We entered Glacier National Park at the St. Mary entrance, got our bearings at the Visitor Center there, and headed south to McDonald Valley in the forested, less mountainous part of the park. Within half an hour we spotted the first black bear ambling along the roadside gathering berries.

Later, heading to ManyGlacier Lodge on the northeast border, we drove on the narrow, winding Going-to-the Sun Road, aptly named a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 1985. If you’re not comfortable behind the wheel, take a guided tour—but don’t miss this experience.

Mountain goats were plentiful, but this one was especially close.

The 12-mile road to Many Glacier Hotel is reputed to be one of the best sections of the park to view wildlife.  With 68 animal species and 227 bird species in the park, you’re almost guaranteed to spot a large variety of wildlife.

Along with watching as a mama bear and two cubs amble along the road by our lodge, we stood spellbound as a bull moose crossed Fisherman’s Cap Lake in nearby Swiftcurrent--mere yards from spectators on shore.

Moose-watching at Fisherman's Cap Lake in Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park is located in the northwest corner of Montana along the spine of the Rocky Mountains. Waterton Lakes National Park in Alberta, Canada is the northern extension of Glacier NP. The two countries work together to promote and preserve the parks. http://www.nps.gov/glac

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

 

 

Book holiday flights now!

If you’re planning to fly on an airplane before the end of the year, and especially during the upcoming holidays, the best advice from Dean Headley, Airline Quality Rating guru and associate professor of marketing at Wichita State University, is to book early.

That shouldn’t come as a surprise, since holiday travel ramps up every year around Thanksgiving and Christmas. Strong demand for air travel will continue, and that means higher ticket prices and limited seat capacity.

Despite the fact airline performance statistics have generally improved each year since 2007, the whole travel experience has become more stressful and less certain. Add to that the possibility of winter weather affecting departures, and you have a scenario that no one wants to think about.

Flights for holiday periods often sell out months ahead. The exception might be to fly on the holiday itself—Thanksgiving, Christmas, or New Year’s Day. If you must travel on specific days, now is the time to book your holiday travel.

“The holiday travel period continues to be a challenging time for travelers,” Headley says regarding his annual report released on Sept 10. “December and January have the worst on-time arrival percentage and mishandled baggage rates. If possible travel as early before the actual holiday or as late as possible afterward, and always leave room for schedule changes,” Headley cautions.

When booking, consumers also need to be on the lookout for additional fees. The price you see on a website may not be the final price you end up paying. Extra costs for certain seats, baggage, early boarding, and insurance can be significant, especially if a family is traveling together.

If you have a choice between two connections with similar fares, choose the one with the least congested connecting airport. This reduces the risk of missing a connection or losing luggage.

Recheck departure and arrival times of flights a few days before travel since schedules sometimes change. Be sure to check in early for your flight (up to 24 hours prior online). On oversold flights, which are common during the holidays, the last passengers to check in are the first to be bumped, even if they have met the deadlines.

Finally, mind your manners. Other travelers (not to mention airline employees) are also under stress at that time of year. Consideration for other travelers is a good way to share a cheerful holiday spirit.

Photos from free sites.

The grandeur of Mount Rushmore doesn't disappoint

Our first look at the famous presidential heads of Mount Rushmore came through a tunnel.

The sculptures of four American presidents has become
and iconic symbol of freedom and hope.

Perusing brochures we had picked up on our road trip across South Dakota, I discovered that we could arrive at the monument via Iron Mountain Road, a scenic winding road that runs partly through Custer State Park--between Mount Rushmore National Memorial and the junction of US 16A and SD 36.



Tunnels were blasted through the mountain when
building Iron Mountain Road.

Instead of taking a direct western route, we drove a bit south and then followed 17-mile Iron Mountain Road through hills, meadows, and Black Hills National Forest—marveling at the amount of dynamite needed to blast through solid rock and create three tunnels when the highway was built in 1933.

Mount Rushmore views for a distance of several miles.

Designed to frame the four presidential faces as they emerged on Mount Rushmore, Iron Mountain Road is a marvel of engineering. Corkscrew spirals known as pigtail bridges, possible wildlife sightings, and magnificent Black Hills scenery make the hour-long drive worthwhile, even if you’re not heading to Mount Rushmore.

Despite the hazy atmosphere (from fires in Canada) I was thrilled at our first glimpse of the National Memorial. Once through the final tunnel, our views of the gigantic presidents increased with every turn in the road--another two miles to Mount Rushmore. 

One of the pigtail bridges on Iron Mountain Road
in South Dakota

From the time American children are in school, they see pictures of Mount Rushmore. It becomes a familiar sight, yet the enormity of the mountain sculpture is hard to imagine. The 60 foot tall faces of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Abraham Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt were carved into the granite stone of the mountain under the direction of sculptor Gutzon Borglum, as a symbol of American freedom and hope for people from varied cultures and backgrounds.

To celebrate our country, the primary walkway is flanked by flags of every state. At the end of the esplanade is a seating area that looks out over the presidential heads. At a staging area below a local band was playing marching music on the day of our visit.

We visited the Sculptor’s Studio where Borglum spent much of his time refining his scale model of Mount Rushmore. Then we walked President’s Trail--0.8 mile and 422 stairs long, to get as close and personal with the sculpture as possible. A 14-minute film in the Visitor Center describes the reasons for and methods used in carving Mount Rushmore.



The profile view of Washington
is also incredible.

Rangers give talks throughout the day, and we learned that the massive task took 14 years and 400 workers to complete at a cost of almost a million dollars. Although Borglum made a plaster mold of each face, he told the artists to feel with their fingers and work from what they felt more than what they saw. We also learned that a 10’ tunnel created behind Lincoln’s head was intended to store historical papers but was never finished.

With an erosion rate of one inch every 10,000 years, Mount Rushmore National Memorial should last a really long time. If you can visit in the evening, a spectacular Lighting Ceremony is held nightly from mid-May through the end of September.

Even after leaving the Memorial, the views were not over. An amazing profile view of George Washington was visible on Hwy 244 as we headed to the town of Custer.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

San Antonio's historic missions receive UNESCO World Heritage status

The Alamo, San Antonio, Texas

San Antonio Missions were officially designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in July 2015.  This is an elite list with just 22 existing U.S. landmarks. Now the five Missions (including The Alamo) are taking their place among other great American historic and cultural institutions like the Statue of Liberty and Independence Hall, in addition to natural treasures such as the Grand Canyon and world wonders like the Great Wall of China.



Mission San Jose, San Antonio, Texas

The Missions are the third designation in the country in the last 20 years. "The United States has a powerful and valuable history that encompasses a wide range of peoples, creeds and experiences,” said Crystal Nix-Hines, U.S. ambassador and permanent representative to UNESCO. “The San Antonio Missions represent an important element of our story, and a World Heritage designation allows them to be shared not only within the U.S. but also the wider global community.”



Mission Concepcion, San Antonio, Texas

As Texas’ first UNESCO site, now there’s no hesitation to “Remember the Alamo,” the first San Antonio Mission.

Susan Snow, archeologist for San Antonio Missions National Historical Park who has been coordinating the community efforts to secure UNESCO World Heritage status since 2007, said, “The San Antonio Missions are a tangible representation of everything required for a functioning Spanish colonial mission system, all within a short trek along the San Antonio River. These Missions are a living example of the interchange of cultures bringing together the indigenous, Spanish, Mexican, and other influences that form South Texas today.  The resulting cross-cultural exchange is the very essence of the great melting pot of the United States.”

History of the Missions

Mission Concepcion, San Antonio, Texas

As the largest collection of Spanish colonial architecture in the U.S., Mission Concepción, Mission San José, Mission San Juan, Mission Espada and Mission San Antonio de Valero (The Alamo) were built in the early 1700s to convert Native Americans to Christianity and help settle this region under the flag of Spain.



Mission Espada Church
San Antonio, Texas

Straddling either side of the spring-fed San Antonio River, the five Missions are uniquely close to one another, spanning just over seven miles. They proved critical to Texas’ iconic history and heritage, shaping the San Antonio landscape with their acequias, farm fields, ranchlands, and compounds. Indigenous people and people from around the empire of New Spain were brought together to share technologies, art and cultures. The Missions continued to play an important role in early Mexican history and in the struggle for Texas independence. These contributions are still seen in the modern layout of the streets and neighborhoods of San Antonio.



Mission San Juan, San Antonio, Texas

The Missions survived for decades, creating a distinctive culture that blended native traditions with newly adopted Spanish ways. Communally, they have shaped the personality of San Antonio as a melting pot of Latino, Native American and Western cultures.

Mission San Jose, San Antonio, TX

Significance of the designation

 

“San Antonio has become the nation’s seventh-largest city while preserving the iconic history upon which it was built,” said Casandra Matej, Executive Director of the San Antonio Convention & Visitors Bureau. “Treasures like The Missions set us apart as an authentic destination, and now with World Heritage status, we are provided a tremendous opportunity to bring even more awareness, visitors and business to our city.”

Mission Espada, San Antonio, TX

For San Antonio, the economic impact will be significant, as tourism is one of the city’s top five industries, providing one in eight jobs and more than $12 billion annually.

 Information and photos courtesy of www.visitsanantonio.com