Our day begins at sunrise. We are 13 adventurers on
a trip with Natural Habitat Adventures to swim with whale sharks, the world’s
largest fish. Anticipation is high as we are anxious to get started on our
excursion.
Whale sharks are 5 time my length.
Our group had arrived on the tiny fishing island of
Holbox (pronounced Ol-bosh) by ferry the day before. Situated off the coast of
Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula, this laid-back village has quiet beaches but no
paved roads. Transportation is by golf cart, substitute for a traditional taxi.
Larry rides from the ferry to our hotel via taxi.
On
our way
Golf carts shuttle us the short distance from our
hotel to the main dock of Holbox where we board two boats that will take us 20
miles out to sea. The ride will take about two hours and pass through the Gulf
of Mexico into the Caribbean Sea. Around 8:00 a.m. we stop and consume breakfast
sandwiches and juice on the boat to fortify us for the rest of the trip.
I'm forming the l in Holbox sign at the beach where we board our boat.
It’s a warm, sunny day in August--ideal conditions
for locating whale sharks. Soon we arrive at an area where plankton, food for
the sharks, are plentiful and near the surface. Dozens of whale sharks have
gathered here to feed. Everyone is ecstatic since this means that opportunities
to spot and then follow sharks in the water is great.
However, we are not alone. Many other boats have
gathered in the same location. The tourist industry has recognized the economic
value of tourists swimming with the sharks over fishing for them and reducing
their numbers. The sharks are now protected in their native environment.
We go out to sea in search of whale sharks.
Everyone is eager to jump in the water, but that’s
not how it happens. Regulations apply, so boats take turns allowing their
guests into the water to avoid overcrowding.
Ready
to swim
The process goes like this: Whoever is going into
the water next sits on the edge of the boat, ready and fully outfitted with
snorkel, mask, and fins until the guide spots a shark fin nearby above water
and determines which way it is swimming. Quickly he orders “Go,” and you plunge
into the water while trying to follow the guide who is swimming to in front of
the shark.
Fins above water indicate where the whale sharks are.
We learn that when we hit the water it’s best to
look up to see where the shark’s fin is rather than turning face down as for
usual snorkeling. Otherwise, you might not know the direction the shark is
swimming—and your turn is over very quickly if the shark swims out of view or
decides to dive deeper.
Once in the water it’s quite a thrill to realize you
are just a few feet—sometimes just inches—away from these magnificent
creatures. Watching their bulky dot-patterned bodies maneuver so smoothly in
the water is simply amazing.
Magnificent creatures!
Despite their size, whale sharks are gentle
creatures. But close encounters are discouraged because the sharks are so large
they could knock a person silly if there was a collision, and they have really
big mouths!
It’s possible to try to swim to where a shark is,
but you’re not likely to catch up or get a good look, so following the guide’s
lead is important. Despite their length—up to 40 feet—the sharks swim fast. I
quickly realized there would be no photography to record this adventure for
posterity!
The first time Larry and I go we get caught in a tangle
of thick yellow seaweed that obstructs our views. I go again, and this time is
simply awesome—a close-up look at two sharks during the hectic—and tiring--few
minutes of bobbing face down in ocean waves.
 |
| Larry and me scoping out the swimming whale sharks. |
The next day we follow the same process, with each
person getting two or three turns to be in the water. On one of our turns the
shark swims extremely close to the boat just as Larry and I jump in the water.
His movements are unpredictable, and I find myself literally staring into his
mouth while frantically paddling to move away. I see his large tail flipping
back and forth and just imagine the slap I might get if I’m in his path. I’m a
minnow against the broad body of this giant fish!
Swim close but don't get in the way!
My last swim is the very best. With the guide
showing me the way, I swim alongside the graceful whale shark for what seems
like a long time but is probably only a few minutes. I try to soak in every aspect of the magical experience—the
shimmer of its skin in sunlight, the swish of its body turning in the water,
and the thrill of interacting closely with one of nature’s special creatures in
its home environment.
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