One of the pleasures of traveling is discovering
unique places to eat and sampling new kinds of food. That totally describes the
experience we had during our recent visit to Minneapolis. |
Several of the "taco" selections at Owamni |
Thanks to our daughter, who snagged a coveted reservation
at the nationally recognized indigenous restaurant Owamni by The Sioux Chef, we
had a meal totally different from anything we’ve ever experienced.
Behind
the scenes
The creation of owner and chef Sean Sherman, along
with his wife Dana Thompson, Owamni is a restaurant that focuses on North American
Indigenous foods. The name comes from the Dakota name Owamniyomni which Sherman
says means “place of the falling, swirling water,” referring to St. Anthony
Falls. It is located inside a reclaimed mill on the banks of the Mississippi
River. According to Indigenous belief, it is located at OwamniYommi, the sacred
site of peace and well-being for the Dakota and Anishinabe people.
Sherman, born into the Oglala Lakota tribe, honed
his talents while cooking in the U.S. and internationally for 30 years. In
recognition of his culinary and creative abilities, he was awarded a 2018 James
Beard Award for Best American Cookbook and a James Beard Foundation Leadership
Award in 2019.
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Drink menu offers unusual concoctions |
Throughout his career, Sherman’s main culinary focus
has been on revitalization and awareness of indigenous food systems, integrating
these into a modern context, and educating the public about ancient techniques
of farming, harvesting, and land stewardship as practiced by his ancestors.
While traveling to different tribal communities
Sherman became better acquainted with Native American food traditions. He began
connecting to native plants and methods of production and cooking as a way to
help indigenous people heal from collective trauma resulting from generations
of unfair policies during America’s colonial period.
Believing that the original indigenous diet would also
be healthier for today’s consumers, he set out to emulate it by preparing foods
that are not processed, contain no cane sugar, soy, wheat (gluten), dairy, or
high cholesterol ingredients such as found in beef, chicken, and pork.
The
food
So, what does the restaurant serve, you might ask?
Delicious food and drink, I would reply.
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Cherry birch tea and blueberry and lemon mint zero-proof cocktail |
Wild plants and game are primary ingredients, with
these notably purchased from indigenous and local producers. Shareable
appetizers include tacos (sandwiches), salads, and grain bowls. Three entrees
feature bison, fish, and vegetarian dishes. Drinks include a long list of iced
teas and craft zero-proof cocktails that utilize indigenous plants including
wild rice, corn, sumac, mushrooms, and more. Some are decorated with flowers
other colorful motifs.
The menu is relatively small, but there is enough
variety to suit all tastes (if you let yourself be adventurous). Here is what
the four of us ordered.
I started with a blueberry and lemon mint mocktail,
which was not only scrumptious but colorful and visually pleasing. My daughter
had cherry birch iced tea, and the two guys sampled house-made birch beer.
We ordered a selection of sharable items that were
passed around and sampled by all, with each of us having different favorites. Now,
I really couldn’t describe exactly what was in all the items, but the flavors and
textures were exquisitely blended into combinations that we found delightful
and filling. |
More sharable items |
From the plant section: Sweet potato with maple
chili crisp, wild mushroom chowder, true wild rice (hand harvested ) with
mashed bean bowl, corn taco—dumpling with jam and maple popcorn.
From the game section: Smoked turkey tinga with
berries, bison asada taco with pesto and guajillo salsa, and elk taco with
burnt ends, carrot, turnip slaw, and barbeque sauce.
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Outdoor terrace at Owamni |
Opened in 2021, the restaurant has proved very popular
with locals and visitors. Inside there is a long, narrow space with tables positioned
toward the river. The dining room is small, so plan ahead and make a
reservation. Walk-ins will be seated at the casual outdoor patio on a
first-come basis.
Owamni,
410 S. 1st St., Minneapolis, 612-444-1846, www.owamni.com